FABRIC HISTORY
HOUNDSTOOTH HISTORY
Houndstooth or as the French say pied de poule, is one of the most recognizable iconic prints. Both modern and classic this chic pattern is certainly having an on-trend moment.
This distinctive dogtooth pattern originated like most woven wool fabrics...in Scotland. Usually Scottish fabrics are tied to the aristocracy — the Mackenzies, the Macintoshes, the Andrews and other clans each had its own exclusive tartan. It hasn’t been shown that houndstooth belongs to any particular family, but is believed to have been created by individuals not belonging to a clan. Dating sometime between 360 AD and 100 AC, houndstooth originated in the Scottish lowlands near the Anglo Saxon border, that’s why it's also called Border Tartan. As one of the more ancient tartan types, houndstooth is believed to have been created by non-clansman and originally made on a woven wool cloth.
From the most humble beginnings houndstooth was worn by shepherds as an outer garment. According to some, it was worn by Scottish shepherd’s for protection, because from a distance the pattern colours blend together making the figure appear afar. An ancient (and very chic) camouflage.
Houndstooth check is a two-toned textile pattern. At its beginnings it was a wool cloth weaving white sheep wool for the lighter checks and a darker wool for the contrasting black ones, usually from a naturally tinted wool weaving or simply from a black sheep. It is made with alternating bands of four dark and four light threads in both warp and weft – two over and two under the warp created a sort of broken check or jagged shape giving the woven its name. Because of the abstract four-pointed shape the pattern was referred to as “shepherd’s check,” “dogtooth” and “puppytooth" for a mini check.
This distinctive dogtooth pattern originated like most woven wool fabrics...in Scotland. Usually Scottish fabrics are tied to the aristocracy — the Mackenzies, the Macintoshes, the Andrews and other clans each had its own exclusive tartan. It hasn’t been shown that houndstooth belongs to any particular family, but is believed to have been created by individuals not belonging to a clan. Dating sometime between 360 AD and 100 AC, houndstooth originated in the Scottish lowlands near the Anglo Saxon border, that’s why it's also called Border Tartan. As one of the more ancient tartan types, houndstooth is believed to have been created by non-clansman and originally made on a woven wool cloth.
From the most humble beginnings houndstooth was worn by shepherds as an outer garment. According to some, it was worn by Scottish shepherd’s for protection, because from a distance the pattern colours blend together making the figure appear afar. An ancient (and very chic) camouflage.
Houndstooth check is a two-toned textile pattern. At its beginnings it was a wool cloth weaving white sheep wool for the lighter checks and a darker wool for the contrasting black ones, usually from a naturally tinted wool weaving or simply from a black sheep. It is made with alternating bands of four dark and four light threads in both warp and weft – two over and two under the warp created a sort of broken check or jagged shape giving the woven its name. Because of the abstract four-pointed shape the pattern was referred to as “shepherd’s check,” “dogtooth” and “puppytooth" for a mini check.
After many centuries dogstooth lost its purpose as a utilitarian pattern and started to be acquired by high society. Houndstooth started to pop up as a way for the higher class to refresh style. In the 1930s, the houndstooth pattern was adapted by the wealthy and in very recent times has become a very popular fabric in modern society.
PRINCE OF WALES CHECK HISTORY
Prince of Wales check is known under many different guises; Glen Check, Glen Plaid, Glen Urquhart Plaid and many more. It is worn far and wide by members of state and celebrities alike.
The Scottish Register of Tartan records Prince of Wales Check as actually named “Glenurquhart Estate Check”, registered on the First of January, 1840. The registered and most widely accepted original designer, Miss Elizabeth MacDougall, was a native of the village of Lewston found at the foot of the glen. Miss MacDougall’s design incorporates varying sizes of puppy tooth patterns giving the look of squares and stripes.
The pattern first came to prominence when Countess Caroline of Seafield herself was looking for something to dress her grounds staff. She was looking for something smart, warm and durable as the weather was often fierce and the clothing needed to be able to withstand all that the Urquhart estate could throw at it. It was when she saw the new check design worn by the local men she found something she could use. Usually, Glen Check is worn in winter and as such is made from thick wool or flannel. This made it an ideal material for the harsh Scottish winter and outdoors.
For a while, the check remained a local fashion and was worn mainly by those who worked on the estate. It wasn’t until the then-Prince of Wales, King Edward VII, visited the estate on a hunting trip and observed the estate’s staff wearing the pattern. He liked the design and wore it so much that it garnered the nickname “Prince of Wales Check”.
As with most royal trends, the glen check became one of the most popular designs in the country and was worn very widely. Edward, known as Europe’s Uncle, was famed for his appetite for food, tobacco, and fashion. He was often reprimanded for spending too much time with his tailor - even spending even more with his tailor than he did with his cabinet! So it is no surprise therefore that his taste in clothing was contagious.
This carried on into the swinging 60s, where film stars and musicians such as James Bond and the Beatles often wore the fabric. Sean Connery’s 3 pieces showed the excellent class and sophistication the material deserved and showed it was far from outdated.
From the Highlands of Scotland in the 1800s to the highest office in the world in the 1960s The Glen Check has certainly done the rounds since the King first laid eyes upon it. Hopefully, it will be around for years to come, and will still be as popular as it is today.